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Mexico City...
So big or too big?
Mexico City can easily overwhelm a visitor.
Population...23-25 million..maybe. For years the government intentially underreported
the population. They were afraid that people would get the impression that it
was too big to govern. Now..I still don't trust their figures. Suffice it to
say it is one of the world's biggest cities...with pollution to match. All in
all don't let the size put you off. You will find that the majority of stuff
that you want to see is in relative proximity to the center. As it has grown
the city has absorbed several smaller, formally independent towns. Air pollution,
matched with high altitude, suggests you watch physical exertion the first few
days. Watch the papers for reports of major smog levels. They have a system for
dealing with danger levels. This is one of the few places in the world where
I carry eye drops. Most hotels also have signs pointing out escape routes in
case of earthquake. Scared you? Don't worry. Lots of other ways to die.
Where to Stay
Hundreds of hotels...the majority not in any guide book. So let's concentrate
on what part of town to operate out of. Probably the majority of tourists either
stay in the downtown area around the Zocalo/Parque Alemeda or the Zona Rosa/Ave.
Reforma area. Downtown or Centro Historico as it is called...is traditionally
the cheaper area, while the Zona Rosa/Ave. Reforma has the nicer hotels. Distinction
is blurring a bit these days.
The downtown area has a lot to see...Zocalo itself,
Templo Mayor, Cathedral, Presidential Palace, Bellas Artes, Parque Alameda
plus numerous other interesting old buildings. Downside...gets pretty empty
at night...but not totally. Crime can be an issue at night but there are
exceptions. Ave. Cinco de Mayo and a couple of its side streets is home to
several hotels in the lower to mid range budget. I like this street as it is
well lit at night and the sidewalks are very wide...easier to avoid trouble.
If walking at night it is a good street to route down.
Zona Rosa...nice restaurants, nice hotels, nice stores, close to Parque Chapultepec.
There is a night life...including seedy strip clubs...though some action is
being taken on those. If you are fan of clubs...discos and such then it is
a good area.
The Roma neighborhood is kind of a distant third. Nice residential/business
neighborhood but for the average visitor you would be leaving it to see items
of interest.
Coyocan and San Angel, while normally considered places to visit, are also
excellent choices for those on a medium budget looking for someplace quiet.
As I said, there are hundreds of hotels...many of which never see a gringo.
Mexico City is a huge draw for Mexicans around the country...and not just for
tourists. Because of its large size in comparison to other cities and the extreme
level of government centralization there is a lot of business travel. So, you
are not restricted to the hotels in the guide books. Staying at the hotels
oriented to gringos lets you meet lots of other travelers. Still...many of
the other hotels are perfectly good family places. Just scope them out first.
There are also lots of hooker hotels..as you should probably notice as you
ride to the center from the airport...couple of prominent streets are lined
with hookers.
Around Town
This deals with transportation options.
You could rent a car. But if you
do so you are also probably crazy. Besides the aweful traffic there is
the ever present question of where to park. Even many people who drive down
from the US park out of the city in secure parking and take a bus in for their
stay.
Metro. This is world class. LP Mexico
has a good map...plus the lines themselves are clearly labeled. It's cheap.
It's fast. Downside...during rush hour it is crowded. This means pickpockets...though
violent crime is rare at this time. Women ... the front cars are for females
and children only. Use them. You can't take large bags so it's not an option
from the airport or bus stations.
Taxis. All kinds from limos at the Four Seasons to Volkswagens. The city has
a real reputation for taxi crime. You hail a cab off the street. He suddenly
pulls over and his friends hop in to rob you. How to avoid this...use radio
cabs or taxis del sitio. That's the kind you see waiting outside many hotels
and nice restaurants. They will also have cab stands around town. One at the
plaza in San Angel. These cabs can run twice what a street cab costs. Not exhorbitant.
Any cab you use...they have meters. If he won't put it on..or says it is broken..yeh..make
sure you ask the fare first. This is a universal rule for taxis in Latin American.
Only exception...in a few towns the city sets a flat rate for in town traffic. Taxi
rates are higher at nights. Probably should also expect to pay more on Sundays
and holidays though I haven't seen consistency in this. I admit to using street
taxis for budget reasons. But I scan them before flagging. Look for an older
driver...better maintained cab. Plus I always sit behind the driver. I have
my Gerber with me so if he tries to pull over to pickup friends I can convince
him not to.
Airport
taxis. People freak after hearing all the stories about taxis because
they know they have to take one when arriving at the airport. This is a time
when you are most vunerable too. But you are in luck. The only taxis allowed
to pickup at the airport are registered taxis. After you have cleared immigration
and customs..stopping for money either at a casa de cambio or an ATM..both
available....you go out to the taxi kiosk. You tell them where you are going.
There are set rates to different parts of town based on distance. The rates
are posted. The only thing to watch out for is the size of the taxi. Vans and
suburbans are available for groups at a higher price. Don't let them sell you
this if by yourself. They will try. After paying you get a ticket and get in
line. There is someone who puts you in a taxi. You give the driver your ticket
in payment. No tipping is needed unless he carries your bags in or similar.
The city bus stations have a similar system. You won't get robbed in these
cabs.
An option from the airport that is cheaper than a taxis is the metro and
may be the way to go if you're comfortable. Keep mind that muggings/robberies
can occur and not recommended if you're carrying lots of stuff of not alert
(like jet lagged). The metro station is out the doors to the left of Sala A.
If coming out from customs you'll come out from Sala F3. Take a left and walk
through the terminal as you'll pass the check in counters for various domestic
Airlines and out after passing by Domestic arrivals (llegadas nacionales).
Walk 200m in a covered walkway and you'll see the 'M' logo and down the stairs
you go.
The airport is the 'terminal aera' stop off of linea 5.
1) To terminal norte you simply get on the train going north to Politecnico
and get get off at the 'Autobuses del Norte' stop.
2) If going to TAPO same train, same direction as the above. Only get off at
'Oceania' (the next stop) and take Linea 'B' going east to 'Buenavista' and
get off and exit at S. Lazaro.
3) If continuing to the Zocalo same as step 1 & 2. Only in S. Lazaro change
to 'Linea 1' going east to 'Obseveratario' and get off at Pino Suarez. You
can either exit at Pino Suarez and walk north to the Zocalo or you can then
change to 'Linea 2' going north and east to 'Cuatro Caminos' and get off at
'Zocalo' (next stop).
4) But, if you're going south like to Taxco or Acapulco and need to get to
Tasquena to catch the bus then from Pino Suarez you still get on 'Linea 2'
only going the other way (to Tasquena) and ride it to the south end of the
line.
5)Whereas if you're going to Terminal Poniente you would want to stay on 'Linea
1' (on #3) and ride that to the end of the line in Obsevertario. But, most
buses from Terminal poniente only go to Toluca and other places due west of
Mexico City which you can catch from the airport instead. For buses to Jalisco
and Michocoan most leave from Terminal Norte.
Buses. Into this I lump all sorts. The regular buses, mini buses and the electrified
ones. They are cheap and if you can figure out the routes, can be a viable
option. But be careful about crowded buses due to pickpockets.
What to See
This town can keep you busy for weeks. I'm just going to list some things
that I find interesting. Details...such as hours and getting there you can
get from your LP Mexico.
Anthropology Museum -This
is a must see. Even if anthropology isn't your thing this is a world class
museum. Go here before visiting any of the archeological sites in Mexico. Located
in Chapultepec park, this can be a day long excursion if you really take the
time to view the exhibits and read the signs. Downstairs the it is divided
into large rooms, each of which represents one of the pre-Hispanic civilizations
of Mexico. For years the museum had first call on finds from all over the country.
This let it amass a huge collection of artifacts. It also meant that most other
museums were left with it's cast offs. The inequity seems to have at least
been reduced so that other museum visits are now better experiences. Upstairs
the rooms are divided on an ethnographic basis. While not as aweinspiring as
some of the downstairs exhibits they are nevertheless interesting. All exhibits
went through a major renovation a few years back. There is a small restaurant...but
it has really deteriorated from 25 years ago. The gift shop, while not cheap,
has a great collection of books and other materials.
Chapultepec
Park -First day you are probably worn out from the Anthro Museum so save
the rest of the park for another day. Lots of stuff in the park from museums
to monuments to the castle on top of the hill. Chapultepec
Castle is the big thing to see here. It's been everything over the years.
Famous for its alleged defense by a group of teenage cadets when the U.S.
invaded during the Mexican-Amercan War....as the U.S. troops stormed the
castle the cadets were supposed to have wrapped themselves in the flag and
jumped off. The place saw better days a few years later during the French
occupation when it was the home of Emperor Maximillian and Carlotta. Another
place that has undergone major renovation in the last few years it houses
numerous works of art from the latter half of the 19th century. Also in the
park...smaller museums...many art related. Good mango popsicles. Lots of
winding paths to walk around. A zoo...famous in its own right...but coming
from San Diego I've just never bothered.
Zocalo
and Surrounds -You do know of course that Mexico City was built on the
ruins of the Aztec capital of Tenotichlan. If not go away and read some.
The Zocalo is one
of the largest city plazas in the world. On the north is the Cathedral and
to the west is the Presidential palace. To the northeast are the ruins of
the Templo Mayor and next to them the museum that houses many of the artificats
discovered there. This part of town have many buildings dating back to the
19th century. With the exception of watching for pickpockets it's a good
place to stroll during the day. Here's a map
of the center.
Couple of dining/watering holes bear mention.
On Cinco de Mayo is Opera. Great for a drink at it's elegant bar. Near
the Tacuba Metro station is Cafe Tacuba. Fans of Oscar Lewis know about this
one. On the pedestrian street coming off Cinco de Mayo is Casa de Pavo. As
you can guess, turkey is everything here. Crowded with locals, grease dating
back to its founding..you gotta have a meal here. Cheap. On Uruguay next to
the Hotel Capitol is a great Spanish restaurant. Downtown also has some first
rate bakeries.
Bellas Artes-Even if there isn't a performance you go in to see the murals
and elaborate decorations. It anchors one end of Parque Alameda.
Teotihuacan. The city of the dead. Huge ruins outside of town. Easily and
cheaply reached by bus. Just make sure your bus goes all the way to the ruins
(most do) and not just to the town or the refinery. Buses leave at least every
30 minutes. Lots of climbing on this one.
San Angel. Go here on a Saturday morning when local artists set up their wares
for sale in the two local plazas. Nearby is also a nice handicrafts market
with some unique pieces. On one edge of the main plaza is the Bazaar Sabado
which features some top rate pieces of art. The neighborhood is very scenic.
Check out my photos.
For a guide to what is going on try Tiempo
Libre. For restaurants here is a guide.
Escaping
If you are immediately leaving town after arriving at the airport there are
some buses that go from the airport. Here is their schedule.
Here’s a listing of the four major bus terminals and the principal destinations
served by them:
Terminal Central Norte To get there: Metro station Autobuses del Norte, on
Line 5. Destinations served: Baja California, Colima, Querétaro, Guanajuato,
San Luis Potosi, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo León, Sonora, Chiapas, Michoacán,
Tamaulipas, Jalisco, Durango, Hidalgo, Nayarit, Sinaloa, Puebla, Oaxaca, Aguascalientes,
Veracruz. There are also buses crossing the border into the USA from Mexico
City's terminal norte.
Terminal Central Sur To get there: Metro station Tasqueña, at one end
of Line 2. Destinations served: Chiapas, Morelos, Puebla, Oaxaca, Tabasco,
Veracruz, Guerrero.
Terminal de Oriente (TAPO) To get there: Metro station San Lázaro,
on both Lines 1 and B. Destinations served: Campeche, Chiapas, Puebla, Oaxaca,
Tlaxcala, Tabasco, Quintana Roo, Veracruz, Yucatán.
Terminal Centro Poniente To get there: Metro station Observatorio, at one
end of Line. Destinations served: Michoacán, Jalisco, Guerrero, Querétaro,
State of Mexico, Sonora, Sinaloa, Nayarit
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