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Eating...
What Doesn't Kill You, Probably Gives You Parasites
I've had some of my best meals of my life in Latin America...and some of the
worst. Restaurant recommendations...not here. Check elsewhere. Just some tips
on getting value and maybe not killing yourself. Also some you gotta try its...even
if it does kill you.
People get paranoid about their food. Back in San Diego I worked
with a guy for several years. He was born there...25 miles from the border.
Yet one evening he told me he had never been to Tijuana. Why? He was convinced
that he would get some horrible disease from the water and food. Not a particularly
fastidious person...in fact he was a falling down, pass out type of alcoholic.
Grades of Eating Joints
Simplest are street
carts. Huge variety of goodies sold from them. IMO...Mexico, Ecuador and Peru
have the best street food. Though the latter two have deteriorted ever since
the big chlorea epidemic.
Eating from a street cart doesn't mean a horrible death. If it happened often
locals would put two and two together and soon quit patronizing any such cart.
They've got some advantages. You can see the food being prepared. Best carts
to deal with...ones that have a good crowd of regulars. Experience teaches them
what to patronize. Also...product turnover is rapid so chances of spoilage is
reduced. You will also find that many carts are only out for a few hours a day...mainly
at dinner...some at lunch..and of course in Bolivia and saltenas..only around
breakfast. For some, the cart is a supplementary source of income after the day's
regular job. Some carts can be scary..if nothing else from the products they
carry. I remember the first taco carts I saw in Merida...with either a goat or
cows head in a glass case. The glass being coated with grease. But a hunk of
meat slapped on a tortilla, handful of chopped cabbage and some killer chilis
makes a good snack. You will find that with many people working long hours..at
one or more jobs..the tendency to grab little bites during the day is common.
Also applies to travelers on the go.
Next step up are small kiosks...few boards slapped together to keep the sun
and rain off the owner. There might be an electrical line running from a near
by building...powering a refrigerator. Plus either a propane or kerosene stove.
Juice stands are popular. You'd be surprise at the variety of items that can
come from one of these places. At places like bus stops and major highway intersections
these kiosks multiply. General rule for finding these and carts is that the
poorer the country...the more you find.
Market food stalls. Most markets..not the supers...but rather the markets
comprised of many vendors..will have a section set aside for people selling
meals. Sometimes entire markets will be devoted to just this. These places
freak out some travelers. To be honest...I've come across some that are pretty
grotty. Combination of lack of cleanliness, heat, insects and the odors from
the nearby meat or fish stalls. On the other hand you find many market dining
sections that are spotless with workers who try hard to provide fresh food
in a nice environment. Each market stall may have some kind of chalk board
listing that days specials. Guaranteed that someone will yell out to you what
is available. Not just a hard sell, but keep in mind that lots of folks don't
read. For a sit down meal the markets are probably going to be your cheapest
deal.
Menu del dia, comida corrida, etc. You've decided that you want a real restaurant.
Maybe just to get away from the crowds or to find a quieter place to dine...even
though...even in the fancier places..a TV set is blaring away. But you don't
feel like paying much more than in the market. Most places have something along
the line of what is mentioned in the beginning of the paragraph. That is a
fixed price meal. You usually get either soup or salad, maybe a choice of entree
and either a desert or juice. Places with a more expensive fixed price meal
either provide an extra course, larger portions, or better quality entree.
Of course, as the ambiance of the restaurant goes up...so does the price. Nevertheless
this is almost always the best deal on the menu. Figure you can save up to
40% off a normal tab. Customs vary by restaurant and by country. Most common
is for this to be offered at the noon meal...which in many places is the biggest
meal of the day. Some areas the special runs all day. In a minority of spots
it is an evening only deal. Another thing...since this is all usually precooked
in larger quantities, wait times are short. Ordering ala carte is going to
take longer.
Safety...I don't worry but you might. Use the rule I mentioned at the beginning.
Lots of regulars and high volume...generally the best spots to eat for health,
price and quality.
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