Chichicastenango...


Unique and Beautiful

This is one of those must sees in Guatemala. But even though it is a huge market, shopping is not top of the list. The town has been a major market center for centuries. See my comments under Lake Atitilan. Market days are Thursday and Sunday, but I really recommend you come on a Sunday as that is when one of the cofradias will be having a procession. These are lay, Mayan, religious fraternities. Each one is responsible for the events surrounding a particular saint. The plaza is dominated by the two churches with Santo Tomas being the most important. Note: It is customary for those with religious connections to the church to enter through the front door. Tourists should enter through the side from the small courtyard. Try and be respectful.

The Market

The day before the market vendors from around the region come to set up their stalls, both on the plaza and in the streets surrounding the plaza. Stall positions are regulated and taxed. As a note...if you are going to shop this is an excellent time as the tax men aren't around. The largest part of the market is devoted to goods for local shoppers. On non-market days there are always a few stalls up, plus the daily indoor vegetable market. Go up stairs to take photos. There is even a livestock market on the edge. Once set up most vendors sleep and eat at their stalls. This can be a fascinating time to visit. Handicrafts from all over are sold here. Most things are a bit cheap in Pana with the exception of wood products, especially masks. With all the tourists on market day you need to really bargain. The steps of Santo Tomas are reserved for flower vendors. I find that the best part of the whole experience are the photo ops rather than the shopping. If you have never been to a market then this is something you will remember. I've been to literally hundreds but still enjoy this one.

Hotels

Rooms sell out on market days. To get a room..especially for the cheapies...and with the exception of a couple of the better places that take reservations.. you should be in town by 2pm the day before. This is especially true on Saturday. With the exception of a couple of high end places none can be recommended as good value by Guat. standards. Hospedaje Salvador is the biggest of the cheapies. It's upstairs rooms are OK but overpriced. The rooms at the very bottom deserve a visit from Amnesty International. Take your LP guide along and try and find a hotel that suits you. Most famous is the Mayan Inn. Not cheap but worth a splurge. Following it is Hotel Santo Tomas...popular with tour groups as it has spots for buses.

Eating

Several OK spots around town. The place is small so you will find them easily. I usually grab a bite at Restaurant La Fonda del Tzijolaj which is upstairs at the indoor market building. It overlooks the plaza. Food is varied and OK.

Getting There

Lots of chicken buses head there on market days. You can be sure each is packed. Even worse leaving. You may have to wait for a few buses to get a spot. Don't count on a seat. The combination of crowded buses and having to blow half the previous day to get a room has led me to stop spending the night. Numerous travel agencies in Pana, Antigua and Xela run day trips with vans. I've only done the ones in Pana. Those give you more than enough time to see everything..twice. By the time the van leaves the stress of the crowds makes you ready to go. Prices for this service are reasonable.....especially taking in comfort and the freeing up of your time the day before.

Warning

All in all this is a pretty safe experience and one of your highlights in Guatemala. Still, as should be obvious with the crowds, take care against pickpockets. No one has ever tried to get me...and yeh..I would know. But the potential is obviously there. Pascual Abaj is an ancient Mayan shrine above the town. If you go be careful. Try and walk with others. There have been robberies. Once there respect any ceremonies going on. Few years back some of the folks in Chichi got fed up with some local crooks who the police ignored and took them out themselves.